alpine up belay device

I didn't get to test the facility to lower whilst in guide mode by adding a karabiner, but I can see how this would work quite easily, and gives the device a real advantage over the competition. It is extremely advantageous and it can be used with half, twin and single ropes. It can be used with twin, half, or single ropes. I quickly learned that Ben had just fallen most of the length of Ceramic Extension because the skinny ropes they were using had been offered very little resistance by Pete's old ATC and he had lost much of the skin from the palm of one of his hands and he needed me to feed the rope through.

They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

The Mammut Smart Alpine is a passive assisted braking belay device that also works in auto-block mode for belaying a second directly from an anchor. Belay devices must get the creative juices flowing in R&D departments or just call to be reinvented. It can be used with twin, half, or single ropes. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports.

Via Torchio, 22 - 24034 Cisano Bergamasco (BG) - Italy. How to use Alpine Up correctly and safely, maintenance and storage with instructional pictures.

The possibilities are almost endless. The instructions state that when used with anything other than bolts, the device should be operated in 'dynamic mode' where it will not auto-lock. In click-up mode, it acts as an assisted braking device that will catch any fall. Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device. It boldly claims to be 'the most complete and versatile belay / rappel device ever produced'. The first bi-directional belay device with a backup. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. The Alpine-Up has three modes: dynamic, click-up, and guide. The Alpine-Up has three modes: dynamic, click-up, and guide. Braking friction with “V” grooves, similar to a tube device; To find out more about our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our, Twin ropes Ø 7.3 ÷ 9 mm, single rope Ø 8.6 ÷ 10.5 mm, Hot forged aluminium, steel, and reinforced nylon. Adrian just hasn´t been looking that hard, I can think of a few and used one of them as well (TRE Sirius). Alpine Up: The Alpine-Up Belay Device, made by Climbing Technology, is a highly versatile assisted braking device for belaying and rappelling; develop Alpine Up £ 114.99 A common guide mode setup shown below. I've given up with mine as it is a pain to abseil with. Versatile This is the most versatile belay device on the market, made specifically for alpine mountaineering.

After six months of use we give the verdict here, especially with a view to how it suits UK trad climbing. Many years ago I found myself sharing the base of Chee Tor in the Peak District with a young Pete Robins and Ben Bransby. This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber. All rights reserved. Self-locking abseiling, using the folding handle; This assisted braking belay device falls in the same category as the Edelrid Jul 2, Mammut Smart, BD ATC Pilot, etc.

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It´s worth pointing out (suprised the review didn´t:-))that the official term for autolocking is Manually Assisted Locking and the Alpine Up is not certified as this, only as a manual device same as an ATC. The first I knew that anything was up was Pete calmly calling over to me and (very much in the style of Monty Python's African Tiger sketch in The Meaning of Life) asking - if it wasn't too much trouble - whether I could give him a hand as he was in a spot of bother. Collecting every piece of gear takes a little time. I got this device because I wasn't in love with the grigri. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

It was a classic instance where an auto-locking belaying device would have saved a good deal of unpleasantness, but auto-locking double rope devices have been conspicuous in their absence - until now.

I had been curious as to how the device would handle the situation where just one rope was loaded - this was exactly the situation, and it locked just fine. This document shows how to tell exactly when you're gear was made via the individual serial number. EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. There are a series of tests from the DAV where the circumstances where the current generation of devices don´t autolock are given. The Alpine-Up has three modes: dynamic, click-up, and guide. UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. The ropes fed through easily and if you're used to a non-locking device there isn't any difference for most of the time.

Anything you need to do on the mountain, this device can do, and do pretty well. In guide mode, the Alpine-Up will operate directly from the anchors while maintaining its assisted breaking ability. For extra leverage when rappelling, the Alpine-Up is equipped with a foldaway lever. Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction. Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. I had a week out there with the device and got to use all its basic functions.

There are times when lowering, rather than rappelling, is a smarter way to get down a route. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

Climbing Technology Alpine-up Belay Device + Hms 2D651.

Though when compared to something like a (non-auto-locking) Reverso 4 (59 grams) it does present an obvious weight penalty. A common guide mode setup shown below. In the dynamic mode, it functions just like a classic tube belay, but switch it to click-up mode and you have an auto-locking assisted belay that can catch a fall for you if you let your guard down.

Amazing climbing video that explains all the features of Alpine Up Belay Device.

It offers auto-locking function for double half ropes (7.7mm to 9mm), auto-locking function with a single rope rope (8.9 to 10.5mm), and guide mode for bringing up two seconds - naturally with auto-lock function. It isn't as good as dedicated single rope devices like the Grigri and the Eddy when it comes to quickly switching between locked and released modes, and so for working routes I'd use a more suitable device. By 1992, American climbers and belayers were alternately condemning and commending the new tools, and most of those perceptions persist today.

During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. It offers auto-locking function for double half ropes (7.7mm to 9mm), auto-locking function with a single rope rope (8.9 to 10.5mm), and guide mode for bringing up two seconds - naturally with auto-lock function. Initially with 100m of rope hanging, there is a lot of friction, which makes decent slow, and with fat old ropes it's actually quite hard to move. By continuing to browse this website, you are confirming your agreement.

Possibility of gradual releasing of a second under tension by placing a biner in the proper hole. Fax: +39 035 78 23 39. Assisted Braking Devices have been a part of American climbing for a long time. The GriGri on the other hand is prEN 15151-1 type 6 which is a Braking Device with Manually Assisted Locking (the -1) and the type 6 tells me it is for abseiling and belaying but has no panic locking element.

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So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. The device comes into its own on multi-pitch routes where it takes the place of carrying two devices - one for going up with an auto-lock, and one for coming down on two ropes.
Abseiling with “V” grooves brake.

The Alpine-Up has three modes: dynamic, click-up, and guide. Being made in Italy, what better place to test it out than Val di Mello? Teeth are only seen on tube devices. Long but informative video, a well discussed review. It is of course a fair bit bulkier than a more traditional double rope belay device such as the Reverso / ATC. It keeps people belaying with the correct motion, where some people have a tendency to get lazy with the grigri. The Alpine Up can be used with twin, half, or single ropes and can function in three different modes; dynamic, click-up, and guide mode. The advantage of the device here is that you don't need to back it up with a prussic as the auto-locking is built-in. PLEASE NOTE: ALPINE UP is supplied and must be used with the proper CONCEPT SGL HC carabiner with hardcoated wear-proof anodization and ACL system that prevents the possibility of cross loading. On multi-pitch routes I've always been a fan of the 'guide' devices which allow you to multi-task safe in the knowledge that the device will lock should your partner take a slip.

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