I think going by measurements would just be easier for the the customer. I double-checked everything, too, as I'm a chicken before making those cuts and always second-guess myself about everything. Machines these days can make “hand” buttonholes and mimic a lot of the other stuff that “looks” like hand finishing, but it all comes back to the fit. I agree that a greater range would be good - I'm a Burda 38, so I find patterns easily, but I think everyone should be able to find patterns as easily as me. Being only 5 feet tall with a 32 inch bust, but still being woman-shaped (as opposed to girl-shaped and able to use girls' clothes), I would be so sad (and less clothed!) This has me moving from a mid-size to a really small one and they are NEVER in the same envelope in the big 4. I think it really depends on how much you need or value fit. Click the heart icon beside an item to save it to your favorites and make it easier to review, share or purchase later. I have been reading your blog post for some time, and it is one of my most enjoyable reads. In terms of the fit, the difference is several extra changes.
10 years ago, that 8 would have had to be at least a 14 or higher. Tuppence - one of the reasons I primarily sew with vintage patterns is because they came in Junior Petite - labeled as "specifically for 5'1" and under". The tailor I do have said he knows how to create a canvased suit. A pre-defined fit: Despite these benefits and the advancement in quality, detail and construction, most men run into the inevitable issue of fit. Thank’s for your help and for your many helpful tips from your reports. I'm still a beginner, though, and I'd frequently like a better fit than I get. Sizing isn't accurate and the mix of sizes available is insufficient. sometimes a pattern will go to a 20 or 22 and sometimes it will just stop at an 18 for some reason (michael kors I'm looking at you). It's not that almost everyone is shaped wrong. However, they and the customer are often tempted to miss one fitting in order to get the piece quicker. But to include some sizes larger wouldn't be unfair. Those makers also have a hard time because frankly most women want a suit that doesn’t fit. It almost could be seen as to neat, plastic made,…and nice. What confuses me the most at the moment in distinguishing what size to cut when they only list Bust on their size charts and not Chest or Upper Bust sizes to compare those to.At the end of the day, we know our actual measurements. Those "Today's Fit" patterns are only "Today's Fit" for certain women with certain figures--pre-pregnancy, I was an hourglass and my measurements pretty much EXACTLY corresponded to a standard pattern size 12 and later, after I gained a bit of weight, a 14 (if I went by my high bust). Something about pattern sizing that bothers me is the narrow differences in the lower sizes. It doesn't take a too smal pair of jeans to remind me that I am obese. I'd just like to see better drafting and quality on the patterns! I'm using horsehair braid for the first time and I'm enamored. Learning to draft really is the key to a better fit - once you can identify what your basic needs are you can modify anything. Some positively enjoy this process, but it’s not for the impatient. This difference is neither incidental nor arbitrary. 4. Generally the good tailors will not be more rushed with foreign customers. I’m a little confused by the question though – with an MTM process, you can have whatever shoulder width you like. Be a part of the Bally story. I always have to adjust and tweak and add and subtract. Make a copy of it incase something goes wrong. I guess $1.99 is a pretty minor risk! Is there any difference in the degree of customization or quality? Tailors also refine their pattern over time.
You must have much better MTM experiences than myself or the many people in the industry I know. For example why are there so few garment measurements on a pattern envelope? Obviously there have been a few that simply couldn’t fit (just sell them on again), but it’s surprising what a talented tailor can do. And everyone wants the right fit, even though we all have different bodies. He wears padding to give him proper curves and he has a killer hourglass figure when he's in drag, but I often have to use modern plus size patterns to get the right fit (I am more comfortable grading down than grading up).So, if my skinny 10% body fat guy is a women's size 16/18 in pattern sizes (he's a 4 in RTW), it clearly means that the larger number may not technically be a plus size, especially if you have an overall larger frame.
designing the patterns to be more flexible when working with multiple (ugh) "sizes" on one body would help immensely.
Also, how about the mid-range Hong Kong tailors such as Edward Tam and Lee Baron? Thank you for your time, and for the very helpful article. Bigger ladies can use bigger sizes.While it is true that many modern women are much larger than our vintage counterparts, many of us are still small. When I was new to sewing, the big4 put me off sewing completely for a few years because I thought I must be doing everything completely wrong for everything to fit so badly!
The best solution would be to include more options, markings, measurements, instructions, for making necessary adjustments to patterns. Has anyone tried it? With RTW, that is not always so easy. I use burda and ottobe and there are no suggestions. Which makes me anywhere from a 16 through a 22 in patterns. I've never sewed clothing from new patterns so there isn't much I can add, but I am wondering what exactly "misses" and "women's" sizing entails, and why it should be bad for you to be a "women's" size, if you are an adult woman?I think I agree with Casey, though. One I’ve experience with is Sexton’s made to measure. I’ve just commissioned a three-piece dinner suit from Sexton’s Offshore Bespoke, their take on MTM. :p So frustrating (and a time waster! Hi. For my tuppence worth, though, I think there’s too much focus on these kind of images on reviews – (a) because they can easily be manipulated to look as clean as you want, so (b) they are purporting to do something they really can’t, which is assess fit through photography, and (c) because often the real benefit of a bespoke fit is not these angles, but the 3/4 line through the neck, or the affect when you twist one way, etc etc, The navy garza grossa tie you’re wearing in “A basted fitting for a Dalcuore bespoke suit” photo, it’s a four-in-hand knot, isn’t it? The other issue is that they add the same amount of ease no matter what the size, so that while a smaller body needs much less wearing ease, a larger one needs more. Many thanks. Consistancy in sizing would be great too. You know what you’re getting more. For years, I wore mens jeans just so they'd be long enough! I used to wear a size 6 or 8 in the 90s in RTW, and am basically the same size now but I wear a 2! That seems about right to me. Except with Jalie- oh how I love Jalie's accurate size charts! Not just "lengthen/shorten here" lines but bust cup, hip curve, anything. n. 1.
I do have one question – I’m not entirely sure if this is the correct article to ask this, however, what is the best way to distinguish between horn and plastic buttons in your opinion? it's the sizing that is wrong. Stuart, Great piece, but this statement is incorrect: “MTM only really deals in simple, flat, two-dimensional measurements. “MTM only really deals in simple, flat, two-dimensional measurements. They get a pattern, they think it will fit, they make it, it doesn't fit, someone says it needs "alterations" they freak out, and their sewing machine is not touched again for another decade! This is an approximate conversion table to help you find your size. I haven't read all the comments, but I'm with Casey on the 'keep your size range as large as possible' bandwagon. Silliness! I have a size 12 jeans that I purchased in the early 90's. This information is vital if you are deciding between purchasing the larger pattern set or the smaller where there is no size over lap.
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